Perak Possesses the Most Beautiful Tengkolok Heritage

The tengkolok, also known as destar, setanjak/tanjak, bulang hulu, and setangan kepala, is a traditional Malay headgear worn by men. It is made from a long piece of songket fabric that is folded and tied in specific styles (solek). Nowadays, the tengkolok is mostly worn during formal ceremonies, such as by royalty and attendees at royal events, and by grooms during wedding ceremonies.

It is said that the tengkolok was created during the era of the Melaka Sultanate. Before that, it was mandatory for the common people to cover their heads or tie their long hair to look neat when appearing before the Sultan. The Malay community in Melaka devised a way to use a long, square piece of fabric, folding and tying it into a neat headgear for official business.

Over time, these fabric knots became increasingly beautiful, evolving and being modified according to the wearer's status. As we all know, the Malay Peninsula is famous for the tengkolok, which is a type of traditional male attire that contains philosophy and serves as a symbol of social status in Malay society. This is also true in Perak, where the Perak tengkolok is among the most beautiful heritage headgear styles.

Alang Iskandar

There are several styles of Perak tengkolok knots recorded in a study conducted by the Institute of the Malay World and Civilization, Universiti Kebangsaan Malaysia (UKM). The types of tengkolok used in Perak include Anak Gajah Menyusu, Ayam Patah Kepak, Alang Iskandar, Helang Menyusur Angin, Pucuk Pisang Patah, Balong Ayam, and Getam Pekasam.

Anak Gajah Menyusu

The tengkolok fold used by the Sultan of Perak, Sultan Nazrin Muizzuddin Shah, can be worn by the public with his consent, though the versions tied for the public are smaller, especially in the 'pucuk rebung' (bamboo shoot) section. The royal fold features a taller 'pucuk rebung'. The Helang Menyusur Angin tengkolok has been used by the Sultan of Perak as his official headgear since his installation as the 35th Sultan of Perak.

Ayam Patah Kepak

Before him, two other tengkolok styles were used by the Sultans of Perak: the Alang Iskandar knot used by the late Sultan Idris, and the Ayam Patah Kepak knot used by the late Sultan Azlan Shah. Among these eight styles, four are increasingly forgotten. These include the Anak Gajah Menyusu, Pucuk Pisang Patah, and Balong Ayam.

Balung Ayam

Not every artisan can tie all types of tengkolok and their folds. Many folding techniques are lost when the artisan passes away. Tying a tengkolok is a skill that can be learned and passed down from one generation to the next. However, the decreasing demand and usage have caused several styles to be forgotten, risking their disappearance over time.

Pucuk Pisang Patah

Efforts to track, record, and revive this traditional heritage of knots and folds are necessary so that this Islamic artistic heritage, particularly in the Malay world, does not vanish forever. Get to know and cherish our local Islamic artistic heritage.